Wednesday, June 22, 2011

A Dayak Kitchen: Local Farming, Chickens, Pineapples, and Corn

The Dayak village of Pasir Panjang in Central Borneo is a hubbub of activity. If villagers aren’t working formal jobs, they will often be tending to chickens, growing vegetables in their back garden, or looking for wild fruits in the surrounding forest. Mr Henson, who works at the OFI Care Center and Quarantine in Pasir Panjang, is no exception. Every day after work, Mr Henson drives to his little chicken farm to feed and clean approximately 300 chickens. Carrying a lanjung packed with cassava roots on his back (lanjung is the Dayak name for a basket carried around the head with a rope), Mr Henson certainly looks the part of a Dayak horticulturist as he heads towards a quaint, wooden enclosure which houses his ayam kampong, or village chickens. We head inside. The verdant enclosure is rich with palms, buckling cempedak (a type of jackfruit) trees, and pineapple plants, bursting with fat fruits. Mr Henson wastes little time, and calls the chickens with a soft cooing sound, before cutting the cassava roots with a parang (the Dayak version of a machete). Tiny flecks of white cassava spray into the air and as they hit the ground, the chickens flock at high speed to peck the food and each other. Cassava is useful in chicken farming; even the enclosure is made from wood of the cassava tree.

Mr Henson

The lanjung (basket) is normally used to carry rice, but Mr Henson uses it to carry pineapples and cassava roots. Lanjung baskets are also commonly used in traditional ceremonies. Lanjungs are sometimes filled with rice and put into a river overnight, then in the morning the rice is ground to make rice flour for sweets (penganan in Dayak) for traditional ceremonies such as weddings.

Chicken

This species of chicken is known as ayam lokal (Indonesian), or manuk lalang (Dayak), which translates simply to “local chicken.” These chickens are kept for eggs, but are also occasionally sold for meat. One kilogram of chickens can cost up to 30,000 Indonesian Rupiah (IDR) (approximately 3.50 US dollars), and locals will often buy 10 or 20 kilos at a time. However, Mr Henson and his family also keep a large quantity of boiler chickens which are kept in larger, roofed enclosures. Boiler chickens are only bred for meat and one kilogram costs approximately 20,000 IDR. This kind of chicken is usually bought in bulk, up to 200 or 300 kilos at a time, by people in the city for consumption and/or re-sale.

We leave the idyllic enclosure to visit Mr. Hensen’s pineapple field but my attention is suddenly drawn by a pack of growling dogs that seem unsure about my presence at the farm. One in particular gets very close and snarls menacingly. I use my bag as a shield around my legs and the dog eventually leaves after Mr Henson issues some warnings. Yet these dogs are important for a farm. The enclosure for Mr Henson’s village chickens doesn’t have a roof and there are many snakes and musang (civet cats) in the surrounding forest. The dogs provide protection against these chicken predators, as well as against any person with dishonest intentions. As we walk towards the pineapples, we pass chicken manure, drying in the sun. It is an old tradition to dry the manure in order to remove any bad odors; it is then stored in sacks and sold for around 20,000 IDR per sack. The manure is sold to people who use it to fertilize their vegetable gardens.

 Two of many dogs, playing at the farm

Two of many dogs, playing at the farm

When we eventually reach the pineapple field, I’m surprised; it wasn’t what I expected. Instead of being a mono-cultural, non-diverse plantation, it’s full of life. Tall trees tower over the pineapple plants, shrubs grow in between. The air buzzes with insects and life. This is how farming should be. Embracing the native wildlife and plants, rather than trying to control or eradicate them. Mr Henson and his family never use pesticides on their produce; they believe that insects are an important part of the agricultural process for pollination. Mr Henson does admit that there are also plenty of “bad” insects which can eat his plants. From time to time, any foliage surrounding the pineapples will be cut back by Mr Henson’s father, Pak Awak, to allow more light to reach the plants. Ripe pineapples are usually collected once a week and large ones can sell for 5,000 IDR, smaller ones for 3,000 IDR.

Pak Awak, Mr Henson’s father is cutting down grass to open up the area for more pineapples.  The grass he is cutting is called sendaas (Dayak) and this grass is popularly used to weave baskets and mats. Pak Awak is holding a parang (Dayak), a type of machete.  The pineapple plant can be seen in the foreground on the right.

Pak Awak, Mr Henson’s father is cutting down grass to open up the area for more pineapples. The grass he is cutting is called sendaas (Dayak) and this grass is popularly used to weave baskets and mats. Pak Awak is holding a parang (Dayak), a type of machete. The pineapple plant can be seen in the foreground on the right.

Top view of a pineapple fruit: almost ripe and ready to be picked

Top view of a pineapple fruit: almost ripe and ready to be picked

As we leave, Mr Henson remembers that he needs to check his corn field. We pass through a small area of forest which is being logged by the people who own this stretch of land. Deforestation is the source of many conflicts between people and nature. As Kalimantan’s population increases, there is insurmountable pressure to convert forested land to agricultural land, plantations, or perhaps to clear space in which to build houses. Mr Henson explains that the trees cut down here will probably be sold as plywood for construction. Often the land is logged and the wood is sold before crops such as palm oil are grown. Sadly, palm oil is a growing presence in Pasir Panjang, as small, private plantations are beginning to appear around the village. Another common way of clearing the land is slash and burn, by using fire to burn down the foliage; sometimes the charcoal will then be collected and sold. Many palm oil companies have been accused of using this method to illegally clear land. We finally arrive at Mr Henson’s corn field. Corn (jagung in Indonesian and Dayak) can reach 3,500 IDR for one kilo. The corn is also considered a good chicken feed.

 Small-scale logging to provide wood for construction and/ or firewood.  The cut planks can be seen in the far right on the ground and also at the back.

Small-scale logging to provide wood for construction and/ or firewood. The cut planks can be seen in the far right on the ground and also at the back.

Sadly, nearby farms have used the slash and burn method to clear the land of forest, evidenced by the burned tree stumps that can be seen poking out of the ground.

Sadly, nearby farms have used the slash and burn method to clear the land of forest, evidenced by the burned tree stumps that can be seen poking out of the ground.

This day has been an interesting and informative one. I feel as if I’ve delved into a hidden world, a secret garden, full of food. This small-scale, farming lifestyle seems idyllic; however, it requires dedication and hard work. Yet there is something very appealing about producing your own food and then eating outdoors. For the local Dayak people of Pasir Panjang, small-scale farming is a way to improve their standard of living, to enrich their diets, and to provide tranquility. It gets people outside, into nature. In many small farms, like Mr Henson’s, nature and farming seem to go hand-in-hand.

A secret garden: The idyllic chicken coop, made from cassava wood, and surrounded by palms.

A secret garden: The idyllic chicken coop, made from cassava wood, and surrounded by palms.

Saturday, June 11, 2011

Unyuk, IMAX star from Camp Leakey

You may have already met adult female Unyuk, and her infant Ursula. They briefly feature in the recent film Born to be Wild IMAX 3D which was partially filmed at Camp Leakey, Tanjung Puting National Park, Central Borneo. A historic but still active research and conservation site, Camp Leakey is where Dr Biruté Mary Galdikas and OFI (Orangutan Foundation International) rangers have been conducting wild orangutan research for the last forty years. In fact, Unyuk is one of the original orangutans that Dr Galdikas raised and released into the adjacent forest during the early years when Camp Leakey still functioned as a release site. Although a middle-aged female, Unyuk has a young infant, Ursula. Unyuak and Ursula are briefly featured in the IMAX film when Unyuk returns to Dr. Galdikas’ house at Camp Leakey and eyes the cup of coffee that the good doctor is drinking.

Unyuk consumes fruit in the forest while Ursula watches

Unyuk consumes fruit in the forest while Ursula watches

Unyuk is a supermom. Or superaunt! Not only is she nursing Ursula but she also allows young adolescent Percy to follow her and interact closely with her. This little unit of three orangutans is unusual; Unyuk enjoys mothering older immatures, such as Percy, who are no longer nurtured by their birth mothers. Yet, Unyuk is a role-model with a difference. She observes and imitates the rangers around her to develop ways of supplementing her family’s jungle diet with food sourced within the camp.

In Borneo, orangutan mothers encourage their grown up offspring to leave the family unit and seek independence, beginning from six to eight years of age. By age ten orangutans are considered adolescents and Percy falls into this bracket. Adolescence is the most active stage of an orangutan’s life in terms of socialization. By observing and interacting with other individuals, adolescents learn about the subtleties of orangutan behavior and become better prepared for adult life. Unyuk seems to enjoy supporting these fledgling juveniles and adolescents as they venture into the world on their own. In the past she has “looked after” Siswi’s then-juvenile, Sampson, and now she enjoys aunting Princess’s son Percy.

Unyuk relaxes in Camp Leakey.

Unyuk relaxes in Camp Leakey.

Percy has chosen his new mentor wisely. Like Percy’s own mother Princess, Unyuk is one of the most intelligent individuals at the camp and uses this intelligence to find extra food. As the world’s largest arboreal mammals, orangutans find travel energetically costly. Thus, they must spend much time foraging for food. However, some orangutans have developed other ways of sourcing food: by carefully observing and learning by imitation. Some orangutans have even been seen imitating local fishermen in Borneo. Imitative behavior is recorded in all great apes and is considered to be a sign of intelligence. Here are a few of Unyuk’s techniques for obtaining extra food which she, presumably, developed by observing and imitating the rangers in Camp Leakey.

One morning the rangers awoke to find their kitchen ransacked and devoid of potatoes, cucumbers and tomatoes. The culprit, long gone, must have used a key, since the kitchen door had been locked in the evening. Only two orangutans are capable of opening the locked door, Princess and Unyuk. Both have been seen observing the rangers as they hang up the key, waiting for an opportune moment to take it. Yet on this particular occasion, the rangers assumed it was Unyuk since she was in the area that day and was later seen in the afternoon easing open the kitchen door. To distract her from the kitchen, Camp Leakey manager, Pak Faisal, told Unyuk to go to jalan Toges or Toges trail for food, which she immediately understood – Pak Faisal gave her some bananas along the way.

Infant Ursula looks for some ketiyau flowers to eat.

Infant Ursula looks for some ketiyau flowers to eat.

On another occasion, a ranger spotted Unyuk positioned under the window of the store-room, looking as if she was scouting the area, keeping guard. Unyuk’s baby, Ursula, was seated on the window ledge, passing down ripe bananas to Unyuk. As the ranger approached, Ursula quickly descended and disappeared with her mother into the forest with the fruit. Although still small, the precocious Ursula has learnt quickly from her mother. She has shown signs of intelligence by helping formulate strategies to take bananas out of the store-room, unnoticed.

Resting in the sun, with Percy in the background on the bridge to the river

Resting in the sun, with Percy in the background on the bridge to the river

Unyuk often lingers around the klotoks (the long boats used to transport tourists through Tanjung Puting National Park), waiting for a golden opportunity to access the kitchen or store-room. Sometimes she relaxes in the foliage beside the harbor with her baby Urusla, and quietly observes the boat-crew. Sometimes their new companion, Percy, joins them. He seems to be grasping more and more of Unyuk’s techniques for locating food. Often Percy can be seen eating ketiyau flowers with Unyuk and Ursula when ketiyau trees flower by the river’s edge, as well as reed stems in shallow water.


Competition for food is a strong disincentive for socialization, particularly for adult orangutans. It is often argued that orangutans can only risk lengthy social interactions when there is an abundance of food. Perhaps because Unyuk has few problems supplementing her jungle diet with extra food, she does not mind Percy’s additional company.

Percy walks along the boardwalk with Unyuk behind him

Percy walks along the boardwalk with Unyuk behind him

Often, like Unyuk and Princess, his own clever mother, Percy observes the rangers or tour guides, then reaches into their pockets when they least expect it. It seems that this nimble little ape is learning quickly from both his role-models. Unyuk, Ursula, Percy and other orangutans feature in the IMAX Born to be Wild trailer which can be viewed for free on Youtube. Here Percy can be seen briefly begging for food from his mother’s mouth (but it looks like a kiss!): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wv2Af-H7ZnI

For more video clips of Unyuk, Ursula and Percy, please visit OFI’s official Youtube channel:


Wednesday, June 1, 2011

Releasing Orangutans back to the Wild: a Complex Procedure

Not every orangutan release goes as planned. In April 2010 Congo, an eleven year old male, was released at a forest camp located in a secure patch of forest stewarded by OFI and used as a release site for rehabilitated orangutans. Unfortunately, in August he had to return to the Care Center in the village of Pasir Panjang. Congo had sustained injuries across his entire body, including a large wound on his right foreleg and a cut in his gum which exposed his jaw bone. OFI veterinarians and staff believe a larger male had attacked him. It seemed that Congo had barely escaped with his life.


The dynamics of releasing orangutans back into the wild are complicated. Those released must be carefully monitored to ensure that they are adapting to their new environment, socially and physically. Luckily, due to the thorough post-release care and procedures enacted by OFI, Congo was quickly spotted after his fight and brought back to the OFI Care Center for medical treatment.

Congo when he first arrived at the OFI Care Center in 2004

Congo had first arrived at the OFI Care Center in 2004 after being confiscated by Indonesian government wildlife authorities. He was very thin when he arrived, weighing only 12.5 kg. We estimate that he was around 5 years old. At the OFI Care Center, Congo was regularly taken into the forest with other orangutans by dedicated caregivers where he learned important skills such as nest construction and foraging for food. Eventually, Congo’s rambunctious nature became difficult for the assistants to manage, an indication that he no longer needed their daily care. He was clearly ready to return to the wild. He was released in April 2010 along with his sleeping enclosure companion, Ochel, as well as two other semi-wild orangutans that were being held in quarantine.

Choosing the right Orangutan for Release

Prioritizing orangutans for release is very challenging. Often, recently captured young, semi-wild orangutans are the first in line, but rehabilitated orangutans with good forest skills are also considered. Usually, orangutans are released in pairs, to provide a social unit in their new location. Before the release happens, though, the site must be properly assessed and the population dynamics of any nearby orangutans analyzed. Sufficient food resources at the forest site also need to be ascertained. With this information in mind, Dr Galdikas, along with the Care Center’s veterinarians, creates a short-list of orangutans according to age, weight, and forest skills. This information is collected by asking the caregivers which orangutans are travelling independently throughout the forest and which are foraging successfully. When orangutans become more solitary – disappearing on their own for extended periods of time in the forest – it is considered a promising sign for release. Once Dr Galdikas approves the list, the release plan is crafted by the Supervisor of Releases, Pak Sehat.

Congo is lifted to the transit vehicle by Supervisor of Releases, Pak Sehat

Both Congo and Ochel were of suitable age and weight, had bonded well, and thus, were considered perfect candidates for release together. Once orangutans are released into the forest, they are monitored by Pak Sehat and OFI rangers until the releasees construct their nests in the evening. When I asked Pak Sehat if there were any differences between how rehabilitated orangutans react when they are released, compared to recently captured semi-wild orangutans, he laughed and said wild orangutans just run! Congo took his time, and Pak Sehat was able to watch him closely until he made his nest.

Post-release monitoring

Post-release monitoring is essential, to ensure that released orangutans are adjusting successfully to their new environment. At the release site, a team of four OFI rangers monitor orangutans such as Congo and supplement their diet with extra fruit. For one week every month the rangers also conduct research by tracking the orangutans daily, from the moment the orangutans wake up until they make their nests in the evening. A key part of the assessment is to monitor socialization and interactions. Rehabilitated orangutans must learn to socialize appropriately with other orangutans living nearby. Problems sometimes occur when released subadult males are attacked and wounded by resident males. In order to fully adapt, rehabilitated orangutans must learn the intricacies of free-ranging orangutan behavior and interactions.
After Congo was wounded, veterinarians from the OFI Care Cente and Quarantine quickly arrived at the release site, and Congo was returned to the Center for medical care.

In recent months other released orangutans have been brought to the Care Center for attention. First, Stephen was brought back. Another two who were ill were brought back: Frangki suffered from a cough and Saut was secreting mucus. Three others, Enon and her baby, along with her adopted son, Owi, were brought back because they kept venturing to a neighboring palm oil plantation five miles away and raiding the kitchen, completely oblivious to the dangers involved. Unfortunately, these are the kind of modern-day realities that OFI must contend with, sometimes daily. Palm oil plantations and other human activities constantly pose a threat to the success of orangutan releases. As more and more palm oil plantations are established across Borneo, it is becoming increasingly difficult to find suitable release sites away from human interference.

Saut, a playful character, recovers back at the OFI Care Center

Stephen sojourns on his back at the center as he enjoys his enrichment toy, a burlap sack

Back at the Care Center, the veterinarians treat the orangutans and check for other injuries or signs of illness, such as diarrhea. They also check their weight before they are considered for re-release. Congo was treated for his wounds and was also fed 200ml of thick milk twice a day. When he arrived in August 2010 he weighed 29 kg; by March 2011 his weight had increased considerably and he had recovered from his wounds. The veterinarians agreed that he was ready to be released back to the wild.

Frangki and Saut made swift recoveries, and it was decided that they should be released along with Congo and Stephen. Unfortunately, a tough decision had to be made concerning Enon and her baby. Since she kept raiding a nearby local palm oil plantation, (with Owi in tow) it was decided that a new release site should be found for her. Stephen was released with Congo, Frangki, and Saut. In early March 2011, almost a year after Congo was originally released, the four orangutans were again released back to the wild. As of now, all four are doing well, living healthy back in the forest.

The vehicle is packed with fruit for the journey and the transit cage is loaded with leafy branches as Dr Galdikas (far left) and Pak Sehat (fourth from right) supervise the move

Wednesday, May 18, 2011

Princess

She, an orange bundle
turned the water red,
as she waded through the depths
with a baby knotted to her side,
forming a yogi
balance to yank at a fruit.

Lapped by waves
of a steaming klotok
riding into dock
she found her chance to hitch-hike,
to Camp Leakey,
the promise-land of bananas

and as the boat curved into port
she crept aboard,
seated herself on a pea-green bench above the unfolding waves -
there the camp rose from the water
like an ancient tomb
and she did not watch the men
as they pushed the boat’s flank into the dock
but instead, with arms outstretched,
she helped them ease closer.



Monday, May 9, 2011

IMAX’s ‘Born to be wild’ star of the month: Douglas Soledo

Douglas Soledo has a story quite unlike the tales of other orangutan orphans. Featured in the new IMAX movie, BORN TO BE WILD, opening this April, Douglas Soledo is about to become an international movie star! His arrival at OFI’s Orangutan Care Center and Quarantine (OCCQ) in 2010 coincided with the beginning of the film shoot. His name comes from two aspects of the filming process: David Douglas was the Director of Photography on the film shoot, and Soledo was the name of one of the Imax cameras the film crew used. Thus, the new resident of the OCCQ was named Douglas Soledo. BORN TO BE WILD follows the rehabilitation journeys of several orphaned orangutans until they are eventually released into the wilds of Borneo. Several orangutans from OFI’s Care Center were cast in the film. Douglas Soledo was selected to illustrate the baby phase. Yet his own story has a dark side, one that he is still recovering from: the death of his mother at a palm oil plantation.



Despite his involvement in the film, Douglas didn’t let fame go to his head. He appeared shy around two recent documentary filmmakers who were interested in his tale of stardom. He timidly observed one of the male filmmakers and when the man held out his hand to stroke him, Douglas nipped him on the finger. He seems nervous around men, and his cautiousness continued through the recent filming process. At one stage, Douglas swiped at the filmmaker’s camera when it got too close. If he doesn’t trust someone, he certainly knows how to stand up for himself, even though he is barely one foot tall. And yet Douglas can be the sweetest creature around the people he knows and trusts. His tight bear hugs feel reassuring and he often seeks affection from his caregivers. His eyes have been described as “heart-melting.” Douglas’s female orangutan friends also seem to have fallen for his charms. Poppy, a gentle sweetheart, has been seen caressing his shoulders or simply wrapped around his little pot belly. Douglas, however, remained ambivalent about this attention and sat like a dumpling with his arms flat by his sides as she cuddled him. Another female, Sri, often showers him with affection as well. Douglas has made other progress as well. From his two night enclosure buddies, Poppy and Hoffman, Douglas has learnt some basic foraging skills such as finding edible berries or fruit which grow in the Care Center forest, as well as digging at the bottom of trees for ants. It is always interesting to watch him eat; he rolls out his big lusty lips so that he can further examine the food on the tip of his lips which he seems to churn on for hours, making occasional sucking sounds. Yet Douglas’s story has sad undertones.



When he first arrived at the Care Center he often cried at night, most likely traumatized by the death of his mother. Douglas Soledo came from a region of Central Borneo where many palm oil plantations have replaced the jungle; loggers or palm oil workers probably killed Douglas’s mother in front of him, since young babies are constantly attached to their mothers. He was sold to a village family for 300,000 Indonesian rupiah ($34.5 American dollars) and was kept in a little plastic cot with a towel. The family soon realized the difficulty of constantly having to look after Douglas and having to buy milk for Douglas when they already had their own small baby. The village family contacted OFI for help. Trucks and men are particularly stressful for Douglas; perhaps they bring back traumatic memories. One memorable day when he was taken into the forest, he heard the sound of a large truck passing by the Care Centre. This sent him into a panic; scrambling rapidly up to the neck of his caregiver for protection, he knocked over a bottle she had given him and spilled it all over her. Miss Tika has become his foster mother and needs to reassure him whenever he cries, squeals, or otherwise seems anxious.



At first, like many human infants, Douglas needed the constant reassurance of an object. He latched onto a towel which he firmly clutched in his hand, sometimes dragging it behind him, sometimes flinging it around (much like a human baby with a security blanket). Yet with the constant care of his human mother, Douglas has become a happier infant who is developing good relationships with his orangutan peers. He no longer needs his security blanket! In time, perhaps he will be able to forget the trauma of his past, which still seems to haunt him. His wariness of certain people, however, is possibly a good thing. Throughout his rehabilitation process at OFI’s Care Center he will be taught important life skills for return to the rain forests of Borneo where caution around humans will be an imperative for survival. Update: You can buy a poster of or help foster Douglas Soledo here Your purchase goes to support the rehabilitation process of Douglas Soledo and other orangutans at OFI’s Care Center.

Monday, May 2, 2011

Meet Siswi: IMAX star and long-time sweetheart of Camp Leakey visitors

In the new IMAX movie, Born to be Wild, Siswi is filmed sharing noodles with Dr Biruté Mary Galdikas as they sit together outside Galdikas’ house in Camp Leakey in Tanjung Puting National Park, Central Borneo. Siswi is also captured walking on the causeway from the river, and wrestling playfully with Dr Galdikas. Camp Leakey is the historic research and conservation camp which Dr. Galdikas established in 1971 and where she began her research about the orangutans of Borneo with the encouragement of the famous paleoanthropologist Dr Louis Leakey (hence the name of the camp). Leakey strongly believed we could discover more about human evolution by studying the great apes, our closest living relatives in the animal kingdom: gorillas, chimpanzees, bonobos, and orangutans.



Siswi’s appearance in the film is not surprising since she frequently comes back to camp from the forest. In fact, her placid yet intelligent nature illustrates perfectly how humans and animals can live side by side, quite literally. Siswi doesn’t always make a nest high in the trees and will occasionally sleep in a shelter by the boat dock instead. She also enjoys relaxing and playing with the rangers by the kitchen or with visiting boat crews at the riverbank. By observing the humans around her, she has learned how to use tools such as brooms, and has picked up various tactics to receive extra food. This is an unusual example of a wild orangutan exhibiting behavior shared by all great apes: imitation. Dr Galdikas has researched imitation by wild-born, ex-captive orangutans at Camp Leakey. Research indicates that imitation is an expression of intelligence and that features of this behavior could mean that some orangutan tool use is acquired by social learning through imitation. Science aside, Siswi’s story is rich in personal highlights and dramas.

Siswi is often called “the receptionist” by the local tour-guides since she is often the first orangutan seen by the tourists visiting Camp Leakey. True to character, she often enjoys dozing at the dock where the tourists first disembark. Although Camp Leakey is still a vital research station where Dr. Galdikas and the OFI rangers track wild orangutans and record their behavior and ecology, nonetheless, tourism is key for increasing local and international understanding of orangutans and their rainforest habitat. Siswi’s friendly nature and “center-of-attention” antics are well received by Camp visitors. She almost seems to crave the attention of photographers, and happily tolerates the crowds, rolling on the jetty, legs waving in the air.


A Complicated Love Life

As the tourists visit the feeding station, where supplementary fruit is provided to the orangutans in the afternoon, the captains and boat crew of the klotoks (the long boats used to transport tourists to Tanjung Puting National park) often sit and play with Siswi. She seems comfortable around people and enjoys their attention. This behavior is remarkably different from all the other female orangutans, who appear at Camp Leakey mainly for an occasional brief visit. In fact, Siswi is the only female at the camp without an infant; perhaps this explains her hunger for human affection. A terrible infection which almost killed her some years ago probably affected her ability to have offspring. Unfortunately, this also decreased male orangutan attention to her, which she seems to crave. At one time Siswi followed the dominant male of Camp Leakey, Tom. Tom mates with most of the females in his territory except Siswi, despite her efforts to tempt him. The rangers claimed that after several days of stalking Tom, they saw him tire of Siswi, eventually chasing her away. That afternoon, Siswi seemed reticent and out of character, ignoring the boat crew and staying in her shelter quietly and alone, wanting only to sleep. One might imagine that Tom’s rejection of her had upset Siswi. Kusasi, the previous dominant male, had often consorted with Siswi. In fact, she was one of his favorites. Since she can no longer have offpsring, Siswi seems very jealous of other females and will chase them away whenever they get to close to her.


Yet despite a complicated personal life, Siswi remains the heart and soul of Camp Leakey and the rangers who work there are full of tales relating to her antics. In one story, the rangers describe the day Siswi was eating a watermelon. A rumor circulated in camp that Dr Galdikas, who was expected to arrive that day, had already reached the dock. “Ibu Professor is here!” one of the rangers exclaimed (‘Ibu’ is a respectful Indonesian address to a woman). Siswi recognized these words as soon as she heard them and immediately abandoned her watermelon to head down to the dock but Dr. Galdikas had not yet arrived. She was nowhere in sight. Siswi simply turned away, returned to camp and continued eating her watermelon. Rangers are also eager to show visitors photographs on their cell phones depicting Siswi holding a bright pink umbrella over her head.



Imitating Human Behavior

Siswi is one of only two orangutans in the camp allowed to enter the storeroom where the fruit for the daily feeding is kept. This is because Siswi only takes the food she needs and never causes a mess like the other orangutanss who raid the storage area. It’s a good deal: by keeping the place tidy, Siswi gets first pick of the fruit, and always ensures that she picks the ripest ones. Siswi also excels at imitating the humans around her, yet all of her behavior is entirely self-taught – yet more evidence of orangutan intelligence. Sometimes she will sweep the kitchen with a broom, an example of tool-use; other times she steals sandals from unaware tourists and wears them on her hands. One captain remembers how Siswi once stole some clothes from his boat and tried to put them on, admittedly with much difficulty. Siswi certainly seems to be thriving at Camp Leakey. She is surrounded by lush, bountiful rain forest with all its food resources, and has a supply of fruit from the storeroom whenever she needs it. This lifestyle seems to suit her laid-back character. Yet after such a complicated personal life, who can blame her for wanting to take things a little easy?


Bathing Baby Douglas


Lapped by soapy water

soon his whole body became spongy white

as curls of hair drew thick bubbles

so strange

they needed to be rubbed out of sight.

Soon the temptation

was too strong,

it could not be yielded.


As Poppy doubled in size with soap

Douglas leaned over,

licked her back to orange

until his curiosity

was abated

by the warm water,

that poured surreptitiously

over his fun.